Flavorful Kebabs, Biryani and a World More: Indian City Gains Recognition on Unesco Gastronomy List.

Biryani being prepared using the time-honored Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is simmered on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a paste of flour.

Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.

The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.

An International Accolade

Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".

The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.

Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.

A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine

The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".

With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.

"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
Tender kebabs on a plate
Lucknow is famous for its succulent kebabs.

A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine

The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.

These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.

It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.

But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.

Beyond Kebabs and Biryani

Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.

The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.

Cloud-like dessert a winter specialty
The city offers distinctive treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a unique cloud-like dessert, when it gets cold.

Time-Tested Food Joints

Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.

In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.

To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Famous tea stall serving masala chai
A famous tea stall is celebrated for its milky spiced tea.

Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage

The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.

On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the art.

A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.

The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.

John Hernandez
John Hernandez

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